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When compiling a roll of London’s best eateries, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred names. However, nestled prominently among these food titans is a simple salonu found in a far-flung area of north London.

An Shocking Honour

This little Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. The recognition has left the family utterly surprised.

“I am completely surprised,” remarks the proprietor, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that led to their humble place securing such a high position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular spot, has maintained much of its earlier feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the food, and this eatery certainly delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent consistency.

It is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, toastier and less sickly profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Notably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place stuffed for under £25, comparable tasting menus at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

The Ethos of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of excess, and to show what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Dedication

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at fancy restaurants. “I feel really pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to echo beyond its own doors. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the wider importance of this gastronomic achievement.